Notes from the Wine Cellar – Negro Angelo Arneis “vino non-filtrato”

unfiltered wine color

2014 Negro Angelo unfiltered Arneis, Roero, Italy


Background and Technical notes
Such a historic producer: founded in 1670 and the first, in 1971 by the current owner, to produce dry Arneis. The estate is now organic in its 64 hectares. The vineyards here have a southwest-facing exposure 280-320 meters above sea level with calcareous-sandy soils. Grapes are handpicked and the wine is aged in stainless steel for six months, sur lies with battonage. (The French terms refer to on lees, i.e. the spent yeast, and stirring of said lees.)


Tasting notes
First and foremost, this wine looks like nothing else in the glass that you’ve probably seen. It’s cloudy. It definitely stands out in a crowd. On the nose, peach and mineral—think oyster shell—dominate, with Meyer lemon notes coming at the tail end. On the palate, all the above are there alongside crisp apple, lemon zest, and pear with a bracing acidity. It’s ideal for our red snapper, the castelrosso cheese plate, and the crawfish fritters.


A Different Take
When I encounter wines bottled exclusively for the U.S. market, I get cautious. The trepidation is based on perceived notions on the part of international producers on what the “average” American wine drinker expects. Will this red be heavily extracted and high in alcohol? Is the producer aiming for a score in the mid 90s from people? How buttery should I anticipate this white to be? The questions are endless.

However, this wine is stunningly gorgeous. I can imagine sitting at a café in Piedmont with a bottle on the table, no chiller please, and either mussels and oysters, or both, on the way. Ah, one can dream…. Here’s the deal, this wine evolves in the glass as it warms to room temperature, gaining levels of complexity that are intriguing to discover. Same with the bottle, hence no chiller. If you have the patience, you know this bottle is a killer. Come on in and taste for yourself.



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